Jun 19, 2024tutoriels

Sewing Tutorial: Sew the Sunbath Pattern as a Top

Sew an American Armhole Top with the Atelier Charlotte Auzou Custom Patterns

The customizable patterns are intended to become dresses, jumpsuits, skirts... But did you know that some top patterns can also be used alone to become tops? Classic Shirt , Marcel Tank Top , Camisole , Scarf ... Many tutorials on the blog show you how to simply modify these patterns to lengthen them and make them into small tops. This way, your pattern can have even more possible customizations!

The new pattern collection has just been released and the new Bain de Soleil top is perfect for this type of tutorial. Here it is!

Supplies

from 34 to 46: 95 cm of main fabric in 140 cm width
from 48 to 56: 120 cm of main fabric in 140 cm width
1m50 of 1 cm wide bias folded
bias and iron-on straight grain

Tana Lawn Liberty Cape Vista Cotton Fabric 76 gr/m²

The pattern

To make this tutorial, you must purchase the Bain de Soleil customizable pattern.

The modifications will concern the front and back pieces. The facings will not be worked.

Choose the size corresponding to your chest measurement. You can work on the patterns with margins included .

Extend down the center front and center back 9 inches from your height waistline. I like to wear my tops long enough to tuck into a skirt or pants. You can adjust this measurement to suit your preferences.

Then draw a line perpendicular to the middle of the front and another perpendicular to the middle of the back. To determine their lengths, do the following calculation:

"Small chest" patterns

Front length = (hip measurement + ease (10 cm)) / 4 + 1 cm + 1 cm seam allowances
Back length = (hip circumference + ease (10 cm)) / 4 - 1 cm + 2 cm seam allowances

For example, for a hip measurement of 98 cm.
Front length = (98+10) /4 + 1 + 1 = 29 cm
Back length = (98+10) /4 - 1 + 2 = 28 cm

"Large chest" patterns

Front length = (hip measurement + ease (10 cm)) / 4 + 2 cm + 1 cm seam allowance
Back length = (hip measurement + ease (10 cm)) / 4 - 2 cm + 1 cm seam allowance

For example, for a hip measurement of 98 cm.
Front length = (98+10) /4 + 2 + 1 = 30 cm
Back length = (98+10) /4 - 2 + 1 = 26 cm

Trace the sides of the hem line to the armhole.

Finally, raise the hem lines 1 cm on the sides to draw a slight curve.

Viscose Plumetis Fabric Dobby Night 120g/m² Atelier Brunette

Sewing

There are few adaptations to be made compared to the instruction booklet. You just need to remove the invisible zip provided in the middle of the back, as well as the associated facing, and replace it with a classic assembly seam. Make sure to keep a slit at the top of the back to put your head through. Finish with a hem with two successive 1 cm pleats at the bottom of your Bain de Soleil top.

Happy customizing and happy sewing!