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NEWSLETTER

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FIND YOUR SIZE IN 4 STEPS

 Multiple sizes
for multiple women. 

Sewing is a great tool for making unique creations that reflect our personality. But it’s even better when this creation is custom-made. Sewing clothes allows you to break free from ready-to-wear standards and dress for your figure.

I give you 4 main steps to help you choose your size. It is essential work in sewing to ensure that you get a creation that suits you and that you will love to wear. In addition, the mix-and-match patterns all work on the same size chart. Once you find your size, it will be the same for all the patterns!

Before you start, download and print the form to write your measurements and your size choice.





1. Take your measurements

Mix-and-match patterns fit closely. The ease at bust and waist is small. They are also intended to be sewn into fabrics without elasticity. Measurements must therefore be precise!

• Do not hesitate to get help.

• Wear the underwear you plan to wear with your creation. A bra can change the shape of your breasts. If you are sewing a creation with which you plan to wear an item of clothing underneath (such as overalls or a winter dress), wear these as well when taking measurements.

• Do not tighten the tape measure.

• If your measurements vary throughout the day, it is recommended to measure yourself in the evening. For the waist circumference and the hip circumference, do not hesitate to take your seated measurements.

• Repeat the exercise regularly to check the evolution of your measurements.

The measurements

1. Front width

Measure across the top of chest, parallel to the floor from one armhole to the other armhole. This measurement will be used to determine whether you should choose the “small bust” or “fuller bust” patterns.

2. Bust

It is measured where the breast is the fullest, arms at your sides, keeping the tape measure horizontal.

3. Waist

It is measured at the thinnest point, a few inches above the belly button without tightening.

4. Hips

It is measured at the fullest part of the buttocks. Take this measurement several times and select the larger value.

 



2. Find your size

Once the measurements have been taken, find the size(s) that correspond.

The essentials

• If you are between 2 sizes, always choose the larger one
• Don’t rely on the size you wear in stores. The point of sewing is to free yourself from the standardized size system :-)

The finished garment measurements / ease

The chart below shows the body measurements. The measurements of the finished garment are obtained by adding the ease of the pattern with the body measurements. You will find this information in the instruction booklets.

The mix-and-match patterns are fitted, with small ease. The feeling of comfort is subjective depending on each person’s preferences. Some people like to wear their clothes close to the body, others less fitted.

Additionally, the feel may also vary depending on the fabric. The patterns are intended to be sewn in fluid fabrics (viscose, polyester or silk crêpes, cotton batistes, viscose/tencel twills...), especially if you choose to sew a creation with sleeves or a jumpsuit. It will be necessary to sew a larger size if you are sewing a heavy and stiff fabric.

Take this information into account when choosing the size.

Small or fuller bust?

The promise of made-to-measure patterns cannot be achieved without offering two types of bust. For example, for the same bust circumference, but with a B cup and a D cup, a woman’s silhouette will be very different. When sewing fitted garments, if the pattern does not take this into account, the flaws will be obvious. This is why each top pattern offers specific pattern pieces for small and fuller busts. 

The two types of bust only concern the front pieces of the top patterns. For the same size, these patterns will be based on the same front width, the same armscye, but the “fuller bust” pattern adds space at bust circumference. The front lenght is also higher to prevent the waist seam from riding up. No more gaping armholes and full-bust adjustments! 

These two variations correspond to the A/B cups and C/D cups formerly used in the patterns. The bra cup can be different from the type of bust chosen in sewing. This is why the name has changed to avoid any confusion :-) It is therefore important to base yourself on the front width to make your choice. A muslin can also help you find the ideal bust type for you.

cm

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

50

52

54

56

Front width

 

30

31

32

33

34

35

36

37

37,75

38,5

39,25

40

Bust

Small

80

84

88

92

96

100

104

108

114

120

126

132

Fuller

84

88

92

96

100

104

108

112

118

124

130

136

Waist

62

66

70

74

78

82

86

90

96

102

108

114

Hips

86

90

94

98

102

106

110

114

120

126

132

138

The step-by-step method

1.

Find you front width size.
➢ For example, a 35cm front width is size 44.


2.

DIn this same size and with the bust measurement, determine if you have a small or a fuller bust. Three options are available to you. Remember that between 2 sizes, we advise you to choose the larger one. 

• Your bust measurement appears in the same column as your front width, you can simply determine if you are in the small or fuller bust patterns.
➢ For example, the front width is size 44 and the bust measurement is 100cm, the bust size is 44 small. 

• Your bust measurement is higher than the measurements in the same column as your front width: choose a higher fuller bust size according to your measurements.
➢ For example, the front width is size 44 and the bust measurement is 108cm, the bust size is 46 fuller

• Your bust measurement is lower than the measurements in the same column as your front width:
- for a creation with sleeves, keep your front width size for bust (small type).
- for a sleeveless design, choose a lower small bust size according to your measurements.
➢ For example, the front width is size 44 and the bust measurement is 96cm, the bust size is 44 small for a creation with sleeves or 42 small for a sleeveless design. 


3.

Find your waist size.
It may be different from your bust size. 

4.

Find your hips size.
It may be different from your bust size and your waist size. 

Take note of the 3 sizes you have found.
We will see in the next step how to adapt the pattern to sew several sizes.  
bust (for example 44 fuller)
waist (for example 46)
hips (for example 48)

Height

The length of a dress is essential for a flattering fall. This is why our patterns are available in three statures.

• Petite : less than 1m60
• Standard : approximately 1m65
• Tall : over 1m70

The waist - floor length if the same for all sizes: petite 100 cm / standard 105 cm / tall 110 cm.

We don’t just shorten the skirt, we also adjust the length of the bodice (from the top of the shoulder to waist - see chart below) to ensure that the waist seam fits your actual waist.

cm

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

50

52

54

56

 Petite

39,5

40

40,5

41

41,5

42

42,5

43

43,5

44

44,5

45

 Standard

41,5

42

42,5

43

43,5

44

44,5

45

45,5

46

46,5

47

Tall 

43,5

44

44,5

45

45,5

46

46,5

47

47,5

48

48,5

49


If necessary, do not hesitate to mix the heights between the top and the bottom of your custom creation to best reflect your silhouette.  



3. Grade between sizes

In each pattern, you will find a guide that shows you how to «grade between sizes». This method makes it possible to sew different sizes at the bust, waist and hips and obtain a custom-made creation.

Here is an example for the «Basic bodice» pattern.

For some patterns (trousers, sleeves), size data such as arm circumference or thigh circumference are specified to help you choose your size even more accurately.

Grader entre les tailles, tutoriels couture par Atelier Charlotte Auzou

 



4. Test with a muslin

The best solution to ensure that the choice of size is the right one is to make a muslin. It is a test garment sewn in an inexpensive fabric with a similar drape to your final fabric. It will allow you to carry out a fitting to identify any pattern adjustments.

 

BONUS

Push the personalization experience even further by sewing tops, skirts, pants or shorts thanks to the free bonuses "Just the top" and "Just the bottom"