Why Doesn’t My Garment Fit Properly? 5 Questions to Ask Yourself

I find that one of the most difficult parts of sewing is not necessarily assembling or constructing a garment, but rather getting the fit just right for your body.

With my customizable sewing patterns, I strive to offer as comprehensive a sizing system as possible to help you find the size that suits you. But even with a well-fitting pattern, the first fitting does not always produce the expected result.

Before altering your pattern, take the time to identify where the problem comes from. A garment that does not fit correctly does not necessarily mean that you have chosen the wrong size. Several factors can affect the fit.

Here are the 5 questions I recommend asking yourself during your first fitting.

1. Is the pattern printed at the correct scale?

Before even considering the size, check that your pattern has been printed at 100%. Printing it slightly smaller or larger can alter the pattern dimensions and affect the fit during the first fitting.

On each pattern sheet, you will find a 5 cm test square. This measurement must be exact: there is no room for error. Even a few millimetres of difference can alter the dimensions of the pattern pieces and affect the final fit.

2. Did you take your measurements correctly?

A poor fit may simply be the result of measurements taken too quickly or in the wrong place. Before changing size, take your measurements again, carefully following the pattern's instructions.

The measuring tape should lie flat against your body without pulling, and you should maintain a natural posture. Also consider the underwear you will be wearing with your garment: it can slightly affect your measurements and the shape of your bust.

Finally, take your measurements regularly and before starting each new project. They may have changed since you last measured yourself, even if it was only a few months ago.

3. Is the size you chose really the right one?

Once you have checked your measurements, go back to the size chart and make sure you followed the pattern's recommended sizing method. You can also use the size calculator.

It is perfectly normal to have different sizes at the bust, waist and hips. In this case, you will need to grade between sizes so that the pattern matches your measurements. Without this step, your garment may fit well at the bust but be too tight or too loose at the waist, and so on.

With customizable sewing patterns, also make sure that you have selected the correct bust option and height. These two parameters can have a significant impact on the way the garment fits and hangs.

4. Did you use the correct seam allowances?

With customizable sewing patterns, the pattern sheets are available with or without seam allowances included. Make sure you have chosen the format that matches the way you sew.

Seam allowances are generally 1 cm. If, for example, you sew at 1.5 cm instead of 1 cm, you are removing 0.5 cm of ease from each seam. Around the entire bust, this can amount to up to 2 cm of difference.

As customizable patterns are designed to be relatively close-fitting, this difference can have a significant impact on the ease and final fit of the garment.

5. Is the fabric you chose suitable for the pattern?

Fabric can completely change the way a garment behaves. The same pattern cut in two different fabrics can have a very different result, even when the same size is used.

A fabric that is too heavy or too stiff can restrict movement and affect comfort. You may then need to choose a larger size or reconsider your fabric choice. Conversely, a very soft and fluid fabric can make the garment appear less structured or less fitted, especially if the seams have stretched slightly during construction.

Before you get started, take a look at the fabric guide and the customizable creations library for inspiration and to help you choose a fabric that is suitable for your project.

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To finish

Fitting is an essential part of sewing. Finding the right size and achieving a garment that fits well can sometimes take a few attempts, and that is completely normal.

With experience, you will gradually learn to better understand your measurements, your patterns, and the way different fabrics behave. Every fitting is an opportunity to learn a little more about how a garment is constructed and how it can be adjusted to your body.

So, before concluding that “the size is not right”, take the time to check these different points. You may avoid altering your pattern when the problem actually came from somewhere else.