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tutoriels

Comparison of the 3 "circle" skirts and advice for the hem

The customizable patterns offer three "circle" skirts, each available in five lengths: the quarter-circle skirt , the half-circle skirt and the circle skirt . Many of you have asked me the difference between these three patterns. Today I will present them to you in detail.

To go back a little, these three skirts have existed since the very beginning of the customizable patterns. A few months ago, I did an update to enrich these patterns .

For the three patterns, five lengths are offered:

• short above the knee
• midday to mid-calf
• long at the ankle
• floor ceremony with heels
• ceremony with a 50 cm train in the back

As the name suggests, these skirts are based on a circle and offer more or less volume. So the circle skirt is based on a full circle. The half circle skirt has half the volume. For the 1/4 circle skirt, we reduce it by half again.

You will then get more or less pleats at the hem and the skirt will be more or less fitted at the hips.

If you want a skirt that highlights the waist and flatters the hips, you should opt for a circle skirt. On the contrary, the 1/4 circle skirt is more fitted and hugs the shape.

Here is the rendering in images in short length, then in ceremony length:

supplies

One of the big differences between these three sewing patterns is also the fabric consumption. This is a very important criterion if you want to control the total cost of your project.

1/4 CIRCLE SKIRT HALF CIRCLE SKIRT CIRCLE SKIRT
So high with center back closure SHORT 75 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
MIDI 120 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
LONG 160 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY 195 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY WITH TRAINE 245 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
* these measurements are only valid for plain fabrics or fabrics with a one-way pattern.
SHORT 110 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
MIDI 170 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
LONG 250 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY 320 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY WITH TRAINE 485 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
* these measurements are only valid for plain fabrics or fabrics with a one-way pattern.

SHORT 150 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
MIDI 260 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
LONG 370 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY 450 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY WITH TRAINE 630 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
* these measurements are only valid for plain fabrics or fabrics with a one-way pattern.
So high with side closure
SHORT 125 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
MIDI 170 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
LONG 210 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY 245 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY WITH TRAINE 290 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
SHORT 130 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
MIDI 320 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
LONG 380 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY 420 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY WITH TRAINE 485 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
SHORT 290 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
MIDI 380 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
LONG 460 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY 540 cm of fabric in 140 cm width
CEREMONY WITH TRAINE 630 cm of fabric in 140 cm width

THE HEM

With these patterns, you will have to straighten the hem before sewing it. Indeed, they are generally sewn in fluid fabrics that will stretch on the bias. Once your dress is sewn, the bottom of the dress will not be straight. How to fix this?

• Hemming should definitely be the last step of your project.

• Before straightening and sewing, let your dress rest for 24 hours on a hanger or dress form. The fabric will have time to stretch under its weight.

• How to position your dress to even out the hem?

- on you, you then need another person to help you trace the hem line
- on a tailor's mannequin , this is ideal
- by pinning the waistline straight to the edge of an ironing board. It should be straight too!

The important thing in all three cases is that the waistline of the dress is well placed horizontally.

• How to draw the new hem line?

- with a ruler and Frixion pen or textile chalk: measure from the ground.
- with a skirt rounder
- with a laser level

Happy customizing and happy sewing!

10 comments

@SARAH : Oui c’est possible ! Vous pouvez couper votre jupe dans une plus grande taille que la vôtre et ainsi ajouter des fronces. Bonne couture !

CHARLOTTE

@THIERY-MIEG : Si la fermeture est sur le côté, le dos est alors coupé au pli. Le placement des pièces sur le tissu est moins optimal et la consommation de tissu augmente en conséquence. Bonne couture !

CHARLOTTE

ANNE MAYNADIER : Bonjour Anne, la mise à jour est offerte et téléchargeable directement dans votre espace client. Si ça ne fonctionne pas, je vous invite à m'écrire un email à helloateliercharlotteauzou.com. Bonne couture !

CHARLOTTE

Bonjour,

Je ne comprends pas pourquoi la position de la fermeture éclair (dos ou côté) à un impact sur la quantité de tissus nécessaire.
Merci

Thiery-Mieg

Bonjour! Peut on combiner jupe demi cercle et des fronces ?

Sarah

Bonjour,

J’ai acheté il y a bien longtemps le patron de la jupe patineuse (ancien nom de la jupe 1/2 cercle) .
Dans mon livret d’instructions, il n’y a que les instructions pour la jupe courte ou midi.

Aujourd’hui je souhaiterais faire une longueur cérémonie. Dois- je a nouveau acheter le patron, y a t il plus d’indications ? ou dois-je me débrouiller pour étendre le patron ? C’est surtout le plan de coupe qui m’effraie.

Merci pour votre aide et pour tous vos patrons et pas à pas !

anne maynadier

@ JOELLE : Je vous invite à consulter le guide des tailles ici → https://www.ateliercharlotteauzou.com/pages/guide-des-tailles Vous trouverez également dans les livrets d’instructions des patrons des conseils pour choisir votre taille en fonction de votre silhouette. Merci !

CHARLOTTE

Bonjour,

Je voulais savoir comment choisir la taille d’un pantalon ou d’une jupe car je ne vois pas de tableau de tailles contrairement aux hauts.
Merci pour votre aide.

joelle

@FLORENCE : oui je conseille un ourlet mouchoir ou bien un ourlet roulotté à la surjeteuse pour plus de légèreté au niveau de l’ourlet. Bonne couture !

CHARLOTTE

Bonjour,

Merci pour ces conseils ! Quel type d’ourlet conseillez-vous pour les jupes en cercle pour une robe de mariée ? Ourlet mouchoir ? Finition bourdon ?

Belle journée :)

Florence

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