Sewing in “zero waste” mode

In a current trend to reduce our waste, I questioned myself about my approach to sewing and how I could optimize the use of supplies and reduce my waste during my creative sessions. I share my thoughts with you. Feel free to comment with your tips!

Use your scraps

I have already shared with you in a previous article lots of ideas for small sewing projects to use your fabric scraps . This ranges from large patchwork to panties to watch straps. And if you don't have any use for these accessories, they can be good gift ideas.

Keep your patterns

When we sew, we have to trace each pattern to be able to cut our fabric. And I very often sew the same pattern several times, so it is super important to keep your traced pattern well to be able to reuse it. I keep my patterns in large A4 envelopes on which I write the model reference and lots of information such as the size, the modifications made, the seam allowances, and my comments on the finished garment to improve my next sewing...

Do not print everything for PDF patterns

Is it really useful to print instructions in this day and age when we all have smartphones and tablets? Go digital and view the step-by-step instructions for assembling your sewing project on a screen without going to the printer.

And for the pattern, check that all the pieces on the board are essential and select the pages to print if necessary. For example, for gathered skirts that are only rectangles, I never provide a pattern board and recommend that you trace the piece directly onto your fabric. This saves paper (and taping time!)

Recalculate fabric consumption

As a pattern maker , I calculate the fabric consumption for each model for the instructions. I try to optimize as much as possible but there are many constraints that I take into account that can perhaps be optimized for your project.

• For example, the pieces are always positioned in the right direction to take into account the pattern of the fabric. Try turning some pieces over (while keeping the straight grain) to save space.
• Fabric consumption is calculated for the largest size, so pieces can be arranged differently for smaller sizes.
• The cutting plan provides for facings in the same fabric. Do you have a matching fabric of similar quality in your scraps? You could use it without any problem because it will be hidden inside your garment.
• The recommended lengths are intended for a predefined fabric width (140 cm for me, which is a standard for clothing fabrics). But some fabrics are more or less wide, so there is room for optimization.

So you will have understood, you have to trace your pattern and rework your cutting plan carefully before choosing and buying your fabric. Which brings me to the following advice...

Planning your sewing projects

It's always super tempting to fall for a coupon of great fabric spotted at our favorite brand or on Instagram. And then, our closets don't thank us, our sewing to-do list gets longer and we make the good resolution to stop buying fabric on January 1st :) So plan your sewing projects by only buying fabric with an associated pattern to buy the right yardage and avoid scraps and coupons that get bored while waiting to be sewn...