Supplies for Sewing a Boned Strapless Bustier

Today, I invite you to discover in detail all the supplies needed to sew a Boned Strapless Bustier. Between the main fabric, lining, interlining, boning, support belt, and ribbons, the list may seem long, and finding the right materials is not always easy. To make things simpler, I’m sharing my tips and favorite haberdashery addresses, both online and in stores, so that your bustier project is a real success.

main fabric

For the main fabric, the possibilities are endless: from lightweight to more structured materials, anything goes. Cotton poplin, viscose twill, silk crepe, mikado, sequins… Let your creativity run free and enjoy mixing textures and fabrics.

If you choose a lightweight fabric, don’t worry: a fusible interfacing will give it a little boost. The structure of the bustier is ensured by the interlining and the boning anyway, so even delicate fabrics can work perfectly well. For my Liberty dress, for example, I interfaced the cotton lawn on the wrong side with H180 interfacing for better hold.

With heavier fabrics, be mindful of volume: a very long and full skirt can weigh down the dress and make the bustier less comfortable. The trick is to find the right balance between the weight of the fabric and the skirt volume. Fortunately, there are plenty of fabrics that have great body without being too heavy.

lining & interlining

This is where we talk about slightly more technical fabrics, but they are essential to the success of your bustier.

The lining should be lightweight, non-stretch, and comfortable against the skin. You can even use two different linings: one for the bustier, with a bit more grip to hold it in place, and another for the skirt, more fluid for a beautiful drape.

Some examples: cotton lawn, viscose or cotton voile, viscose twill, Bemberg cupro.

The interlining is the backbone of the bustier. It sits between the main fabric and the lining and provides body and structure. Thanks to it, you can choose lightweight or finer fabrics for the outer layer while keeping a perfectly supported bustier. The ideal interlining: medium weight, non-stretch, with good stability.

Some references:
• Cotton cretonne 140 g/m² (Rascol)
• Bustier interfacing 74% polyester / 26% viscose – 195 g/m² (Stragier)
• Light cotton twill 163 g/m² (Stragier)
• Cotton coutil 184 g/m² (Bridal Fabrics)

boning

For this pattern, I chose woven boning or Rigilene, because it is really easy to use. It is flexible, can be cut simply with scissors, and small end caps can be added to protect the fabric and prevent damage.

If you need more support, especially for fuller busts, you can also choose spiral steel boning. It provides extra support while remaining comfortable and flexible.

support belt

The little secret of this bustier pattern is the elastic support belt integrated inside: it maximizes support so you completely forget you’re wearing a bustier. To make it, you need a 50-mm-wide knitted elastic and bra fasteners.

These are not always easy to find, so I use a practical trick: buy a bra extender and unpick the elastic to recover the two parts that will be used for the belt. Everything is explained step by step in the pattern booklet.

I also found some online at Arrow Workshop and Mercerie Extra, with a lovely selection of colors.

And if you really want optimal support, nothing stops you from sewing a slightly wider elastic belt, 75 mm high, for an even more supportive effect.

ribbons

A little assortment of ribbons is hidden inside this bustier…

• The grosgrain ribbon is used to create casings to slide in the support belt.

• The satin ribbon allows you to sew loops, ideal for attaching your bustier to the belt.

• The anti-slip elastic is optional, but you can sew it inside the bustier so it stays perfectly in place.

and in addition…

A few last little purchases to make for your bustier:

• foam cups to sew by hand to give a lovely shape to the bust.
• sew-on snap fasteners for removable straps.
• a hook to place at the top of the invisible zip for easier dressing.

To sum up, here is the shopping list to have on hand to gather your supplies and start sewing your bustier.

• 50 cm of main fabric, 140 cm wide
• 50 cm of lining, 140 cm wide
• 50 cm of interlining, 140 cm wide
• 1 invisible zip, 40 cm long
• 1 metal hook (size 1)
• 170 cm of rigilene boning, 8 mm wide
• 12 protective end caps for 8 mm rigilene
• 1 bra extender / fastening 50 mm with 3 hooks
• 50 mm wide knitted elastic, length of the waist measurement
• 40 cm of grosgrain ribbon, 38 mm wide
• 100 cm of satin ribbon, 10 mm wide

Optional:

• 130 cm of anti-slip elastic
• 8 sew-on snaps, 8 mm (for removable straps)
• fusible interfacing and fusible stay tape (if the main fabric is light and fluid)
• 10 mm folded bias tape, length of the waist (unless the bottom part is lined)
• 2 oval foam cups to sew in

The customizable Boned Bustier pattern is available here in PDF or Paper + PDF format.